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Planting a Palm Tree
1 ) Palms
are one of the most important components
of the Florida landscape. They present a tropical
look that no other material can provide. Fortunately many palms are well adapted to the soils in Florida
and require a minimum of care to establish and maintain properly. The initial care you give your
palm when transplanting it often determines the future success of the plant in the landscape.
SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION
Several factors should be considered before selecting the planting site for a palm. If you have
specific type of palm in mind, be sure to consider how the plant will fit in the landscape in 10-15 years, when
it reaches maturity. Are there overhead utility wires, buried cables, or irrigation lines? Would the palm
pose a hazard during a hurricane? Is the sun exposure full, partial, or shade? As a general
landscaping rule, small lots with one story houses look best with medium sized or smaller palms. Large
palms such as royals, washingtonias, and coconuts look best when planted in large areas or in the
vicinity of larger buildings. Clusters of odd numbers of palms (1, 3, 5) are generally more aesthetically
pleasing than even numbered groups, unless more than seven are being planted in one area.
Consideration should be made of the type of soil the palms will be planted in. Is it alkaline sand, coral
rock, clay, marl, or another soil-type? By knowing the soil-type, it is often possible to predict certain nutrient
deficiencies and correct them preventively rather than after the problem shows up.
PREPARING THE SOIL
For many years, it was felt necessary to amend poor soils with organic material. Current planting
recommendations discourage the use of soil amendments (such as peat moss) mixed with the back
fill. The ideal situation is to have the whole planting area rich in organic material; if the planting hole is
filled with soil much better than that around it, the roots may never penetrate the surrounding poor soil.
It is much more important that you apply a heavy mulch around the trunk, using wood chips, cypress
bark, lawn clippings, or other similar material. As this decomposes, it enriches the soil while also
reducing the weed competition and reducing water consumption. Be sure to replace the mulch as it
decomposes. Keep a small circle (several inches) around the trunk free of mulch.
WATERING
Water the root ball of the plant with a hose as it is being planted. This will ensure that no air pockets
are trapped in the soil and will establish a good union between the root ball and the existing soil. After
planting, a small (2-3 inch high) soil "dam"
encircling the plant will direct and concentrate future watering
to the root ball of the palm. Watering for the first
several months is critical. Never allow the soil to dry out completely. It is also important not to overwater.
Overwatering not only encourages root diseases, but it also discourages the establishment of new roots in
the surrounding soil.
TIME OF THE YEAR TO TRANSPLANT
Palms can be transplanted at any time of the year although they establish themselves far more quickly
and with fewer problems if they are set out in the spring and early summer. Palms do not grow as
rapidly during the winter months and several experimental observations have shown that cold-damage
is much more severe in palms that are not well established. The dry winter season also requires
more irrigation to insure the survival of the newly planted palm.
FERTILIZER
To establish a palm rapidly, a good fertilizer program is necessary. For the first year, a foliar
micro-nutrient spray applied every three to four months and a slow release granular fertilizer with a
3—1—3
ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium applied every four months will provide the optimum
results. After the first year, only the granular fertilizer is required.
OTHER FACTORS
If you purchase a field-grown palm that has been "balled and burlapped" but is not to be planted
out immediately, it is important to store the palm properly. Most palms can remain out of the ground
for two to three days with no damage is they are kept in a shady area and the root ball is watered daily.
Desiccation of the root ball will severely damage the palm and reduce its chances of proper establishment.
When planting a "balled and burlapped" plant as opposed to a containerized one, it is necessary to
remember that the plant is more likely to suffer from transplant shock since the root system has been
severely reduced. Also, one should pay particular attention to the burlap surrounding the roots. If,
after planting, a portion is exposed to the air it will act as a "wick" drying out the soil and stressing
the roots. Complete coverage of the root ball and a heavy layer of mulch will alleviate this
problem. Many palms also suffer from being planted too deeply. This essentially suffocates the roots and
invites root diseases. As a general rule, one should always plant a palm at the same depth as it was
initially grown.
Many palms are ideally suited for Florida and provide much of the unique environment for which
the state is known. Because of their relative ease of culture and minimal pest and disease problems, they
should be prominently displayed in our landscape. By observing the recommendations of this fact sheet you
can make palm trees an important part of your landscape.
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